Friday 4 January 2019

Gauss Rifle, Take II -- Part 1

Remember This Shit? Well, I fucked it up. Well, more like 'I tried to use a mechanical switch as a firing mechanism and accidentally spot-welded everything and I didn't want to take it apart so it's collecting dust somewhere' . Anyways, Let's make something with the EXACT SAME circuitry! woo! Oh god this is a bad idea.....



K. Last time, I was a bit too ambitious. A bit too ahead of myself. This time, we'll just make it a single-stage coilgun. One coil. One firing circuit. Less capacitors. Instead, Let's make it a semi-automatic coilgun. Yeah. Compensation for the lack of stages. I guess it's going to be like a pistol? With one coil, I guess the barrel won't have to be long.

The Magazine -- Thinking about Stuff

So, if this was going to be a semi-auto, it had to have a reloading system. At first, I thought of  using the mechanisms of actual firearms. Two problems with this one. 
First, some mechanisms used the blowback from the bullet to eject the casing and pull the next bullet into the chamber. These mechanisms, although very cool, won't suit my design because a).I can't make parts that precise, and b).coilgun projectiles don't have blowback. They are just metal pieces.
Second, I was going to use nails as projectiles. NAILS. nails, unlike bullets, have HEADS. (Wait, is there a part of a bullet called a head?) Nail heads are thicker than the shaft, and they are at the back of the whole nail. So, I couldn't just copy a real gun and call it a day. 
Spent some time doing useless stuff.

So, I had to either modify a existing mechanism, or come up with a entirely new one. I chose the first option, obviously.
After countless hours of googling,drawing, simulating, lofi hip hop radio - beats to relax/study to, and vocaloid songs, I came up with a revolver-like design. I also came up with a helical style magazine that could hold more than 6 rounds, but since the gun was going to be a pistol, and the fabrication of a large helical mag was going to be trouble, I just went with the 6-shot cylinder.

The MagazineCylinder -- Design & Operation

The cylinder is a 6-shot cylinder. It holds 6 nails.(Duh) Since it shot nails, I couldn't reload it from the back, and had to reload it from the front. And since I didn't have a nifty way of removing the cylinder without taking everything apart, this gun would be a muzzle loader. Yes, you read that right, this is a muzzle loaded revolver pistol. However, it meant that I could stick stuff on the back of the cylinder without worrying much about reloading. The revolver needed "accurate" positioning of the cylinder and the barrel. They need to line up in order for the nails to go pew pew(or flop). The cylinder also needs to rotate. So, I stuck a geneva mechanism on the back of the cylinder. What is a geneva mechanism you ask? It converts a constant rotary motion into a non-continuous rotary motion. and it's COOL. google it. you won't regret it. there is an animation gif on wikipedia. it's one of those satisfying machines that you could watch for days. 

The front and back of the cylinder. A shaft and a 604 bearing goes in the middle. Nails go in the 6 holes. On the back, there is a geneva driven.

 

And here is the drive. The small hole on the right is where a long m3 bolt(like 20mm? IDK) goes in. The centre hole is where a screw goes in. The screw holds the drive to the motor. The motor is a generic DC motor in a servo casing.(Or a 360 continuous rotation servo). The servo-drive setup sits in a mount that looks like 

This, and the whole thing bolts on to a mainframe that looks like 

This, so the whole final assembly looks like

This. Once again, the whole thing is going to be 3D-Printed.

The Cylinder and Mainframe

 
AAAAAAWWWWWW YYYYIISSSSSSSSS!!!!
I had to figure out the spacing and stuff so everything would spin well. I did design in clearances and tolerances, but since the printer itself has many problems, I still needed lots of sanding and washers. 
Here's a video of it spinnin'

Here's a video of it working as a nail holding contraption.

IT WORKS!!!! FUCK YEAH! AAAAWWWWW YISSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!
It took a lot of finishing to get it working smoothly, but it was totally worth it.

For some reason, if you want to try and recreate this, here's the link. Instructions are there on the page.



Thursday 25 January 2018

DIY Watch_Dogs 2 style cyberpunk LED goggles

Image result for watch dogs 2 wrench<-- THIS.

Image result for chemion
These cool glasses.
K. I know that the game is old. But I always wanted to make Wrench's mask from watch dogs 2. I know that there's already people who made this mask. I've seen people use LED matrices, or These glasses. I originally thought of using the LED glasses, but I couldn't get my hands on the sunglasses. Plus, where's the fun when you just buy the finished product? So, I decided to make my own version using LED matrices.

Parts And Stuff

Now, there's a guy that made the goggles using LED Matrices like I'm gonna, and to be honest, i found out the existence of 8 x 16 LED matrix adapter things through this blog. The guy in the link used THESE small Adafruit featherwing LED matrix display kit. Well, I'm gonna use a bigger LED matrix. THESE ones from Adafruit are the ones I used. I got 4 of them 8 matrices in total. 
Image result for Arduino nano
Arduino Nano.
 Also an Arduino nano to control the stuff.
16x8 1.2
The LED matrices I used.
 And...Well....That's about it. Some Extra parts are: EVA Foam, Some perfboard, a AA battery pack, a 5v boost converter, and some rubber bands.

Design Changes And Shit

Image result for josan gonzalez
Josan Gonzalez
I was originally going for Wrench's mask, but I decided that it was too much work. so I just decided to go for a cyberpunk-style goggle headgear thingamajig.  I think i got the idea from The Artwork of Josan Gonzalez, which is cool.  So I decided to make  the thing into a kind of a cyberpunk style goggle thing.





Wiring

The matrix modules are I2C. They're pretty straightforward. connect SDA to A4, SCL to A5, Positive to positive, ground to ground, and you're done. Don't forget to change the I2C addresses on the matrix displays. 


Fritzing didn't have any parts that I needed, so...Yeah.

The Goggles Itself

I Made the thing out of EVA. 5mm craft eva. Grey 5mm craft eva. I measured my lab goggles, and drew them on a piece of paper. then I "squared" out the round bits, and... well, essentially, I drew the bounding box for my goggles and then traced the template onto EVA. I cut that shit out, and glued them. Then I added the electronics.
The image on the left is with the main frame and electronics complete. I then added a black-painted perfboard to the giant gaping hole in the middle, so that i could see outside, but others couldn't see my face. The holes on the perfboard allow me to see through it. Oh, I also added straps.
Lights on.
Basically, this is how i see shit. Tiny FOV, and blurry images.
Straps. and batteries.

Moody ass photo
There it is.



Well, the black perfboard looks weird, and the LEDs are too exposed. so, I added a piece of green acrylic on the front, and added a piece of paper on the perfboard. looks better in my opinion. Some extra EVA, Printed stickers, and more stuff gives it a kind of a cyberpunk feel too. I think. The finished product isn't what i had in mind when I first started this, but I like it better than what I first planned.











Code and Shit.

Basic shit. uses adafruit's GFX library and LED backpack library.
The code cycles through 
 "^ ^" --> "TT  TT" --> "??  ??"
5 seconds for each thing.

UPDATE: Added a button to cycle through the faces. Button connects between digital pin 6 and ground. code also updated.






Friday 15 December 2017

Bio-Signal based Home automation using Arduino and Raspberry Pi





So... I've been working on this project with my friends for a year. It was for a contest(And we won. fuck yeah.)
Now since that shit's over, I thought that I should document it. So here it is.

So, Here's The Deal.

people sleep, right? And sometimes, when you're watching Netflix, or just normal TV, or just...whatever, you fall asleep with appliances on.  Then those appliances use electricity. That's bad. For the environment, and for yer bills. So, what if there was a device that turned off appliances when you fall asleep? and turn the lights back on when you're awake? I mean, you gotta get up to turn the lights on. If you have bad eyesight, or you're old and can't see well in the dark, your house can be a fucking hazard. If the light turn on automatically when you're awake, that would be awesome. So, me and my friends decided to build a thing that did that.


Stuff We Used

Image result for arduino oled screen
0.96'' I2C OLED Display

Image result for mpu 6050
Accelerometer/gyro sensor(MPU 6050).

Image result for mlx90614
Temp Sensor (MLX 90614). Fancy stuff.
It can tell the temperature of an object right infront of it, as well as the ambient temp.

Image result for arduino pulsesensor
Pulse sensor.(We ditched this sensor mid way.)
Image result for arduino relay module
Relay module.

Image result for ds3231
DS3231 RTC module.


Image result for adafruit powerboost 1000c
Adafruit Powerboost 1000C

Image result for 18650
18650 liion battery
Image result for bluno nano
Bluno Nano.
Arduino Nano w/ intergrated bluetooth module.


Image result for arduino nano
Arduino Nano.
Image result for rpi 3
Raspberry Pi 3 Model B.




+ random wires, resistors, capacitors, buttons,servo motors + metal brackets, EVA foam, glue, knives, tape, heatshrink tubing, solder, soldering iron, heatgun, lighter, cables, chargers, more shit.

MK.I

This thing. Like...WTF?
This thing was just a piece of shit. It was shoddy, shitty, didn't have a battery or a screen, didn't have a pulse sensor, was made out of paper.... None of the wires were soldered, it was JUST for testing. didn't last a day. but we DID get data from that thing. MK.I was nothing more than a proof of concept, checking the software stuff more than the hardware stuff. And it served as a base for MK.II, which lasted Way longer, and was way more comfortable. 
















MK.II

Finally, Something wearable. It has a screen, a knob to change what was displayed on the screen, SOLDERED WIRES, comfy,spongey materials, more integrity, and...just...all around better. It still had a LONG way to go. Still wired(Both battery wise and data transfer wise), no lock mechanism, was made out of a foam sponge and electrical tape. even with all these flaws, we still managed to get some data. 





Mk.III

MK.III. This one uses an arduino uno. It also has a LCD shield instead of the OLED screen. The straps are made of EVA foam, and...electrical tape. electrical tape FTW. This one didn't work that well. The code was sorta..all over the place. the sensors dodn't work well with the LCD,.... many problems.







Ditching Sensors



Look at these numbers. LOOK AT THE FUCKING GRAPH! JUST FUCKING LOOK AT IT! The thing's all over the place. The number ranges from 25 to 236. That's not human. Similar shit happened with the temperature sensor. Human peoples aren't supposed heat over 40 degrees Celsius. After multiple tries, and multiple failures, (and by multiple, I mean a shit ton) we decided to ditch the pulse sensor.



MK.IV

Kay. MK.IV. The final thingy. We decided to ditch the pulse sensor, and replace it with an accelerometer. We also switched the arduino nano we were using to a snazzy thingy called a bluno nano, which has a integrated bluetooth module in there. Wireless data transfer was a go.
The code DID get a LOT dirtier. 
Well. we made the thing out of EVA foam. it was a lot comfier. a lot sturdier. a lot better. We even added a battery. Velcro locking mechanism. Unfortunately, I don't have any solo photos of MK.IV. but I do have a photo of all the devices together. Looks cool in my opinion.(Mabye that's because I'm the one who took it.)
BOOM.

The pink Pip-Boy like thing is the MK.IV. Looks cool,eh? It came a long way from the first one.






Raspberry Pi Stuff

Okay. to be honest, The raspberry pi part wasn't my part. I don't know much of the details. I suck at python.  The code receives the data transmitted from the armband thing. it calculates if the dude is sleeping via the accelerometer values, and chucks out a HIGH/LOW signal to a connected Arduino. It also chucks out a txt file. Cool shit, eh?  My friend who wrote this code is a wizard.



Controlling Appliances

We used relay modules for this job. It's probably a terrible idea, since this method just cuts the power to the appliances, but I don't give a shit. Anyways, We cut open an extension cord, soldered on a 5v adapter, and connected a relay module. 

We also made a switch-turning-off robot with a servo motor. What...Like....why....who.....
anyways, it kinda worked.

these are connected to a arduino which is connected (via USB) to a raspberry pi.

This thing. the pot is there for testing. it came off later.



Code And Shit


This is the schematic for the armband. 




Look at it. Take time to take it all in. Noice.


The code and stuff are here: https://github.com/flthtmtlf/2017STEAMRnE_HomeAutomation/tree/beta


Tuesday 14 November 2017

Fallout 4 inspired, Working Gauss Rifle (coilgun) -- Part 3

The Capacitors, Part II (A.K.A. The unhealthy charging circuit)

I have 3 capacitor banks. Each bank has 6 capacitors. All of them connected in parallel. I used a XL6009 DC-DC boost converter that ramps up 5 volts to 55 volts. (Output is adjustable.) Mine was laying around so I just used it. There are probably WAY safer ways to charge the caps, but I don't give a shit. This thing's probably gonna end up on a shelf anyways. 
Anyway, I got a 1K Ohm resistor, and connected it parallel to the caps and the output of the boost converter.

Screw Everything.
yep. I'll also probably add a relay or transistor or something to control the charge via arduino.

Aesthetic Parts - "Capacitor Boosting Coils"

The In-Game Gauss Rifle (With the "Capacitor boosting coil" mod/upgrade)  has 4 coils on the side.I have no idea how these would boost the coils. My best guess is that they act as air coil inductors for a "booster" circuit. Anyways, My coils are going to be there for just looks. I designed a coil-spool-holder-thingy in Fusion360, and 3D printed it. 

The 4 U shaped pieces  are printed separately and slid into the main holder.

Half-Assed Assembly

After the parts were done printing, (I used grey PLA from an unknown cheap brand) I got excited and didn't take any photos. So here's a photo of the thing now. Starting to take shape. Awww Yesss



Thursday 2 November 2017

Fallout 4 inspired, Working Gauss Rifle (coilgun) -- Part 2

The Arduino Case

Now, for the grip and arduino case. Going to 3D print this too. I drew that in Fusion 360. the thinner box glues to the previously made capacitor/baseplate mix. An Arduino sits in the other box, and the box slides in the top thingamajig. I'll probably have another locking mechanism, but for now, i'll just print that.
Box on the left is the "lid". Arduino sits in the right box.
Hopefully nothing goes wrong. 

The Capacitors

I had some 25v, 6800uF capacitors left from a previous project(And by "some", i mean a shit ton.), and i originally was going to use them. But nah. I ordered some 63v, 2200uF capacitors. (I needed them for a school project anyways).  
The energy stored in a capacitor is calculated by this formula:

W = 1/2 C V^2  


W = Energy stored (In Joules/J)

C = Capacitance (In Farads/F)

V = Voltage (In Volts/V)

Using this formula, we can calculate that each capacitor would be able to hold up to about 4.3 Joules. But, I am a little pussy, and I'm not going to charge the capacitors up to their max ratings of 63 volts.  I'll probably charge them up to like, I dunno. 50~55? I guess. 55v. That drops the energy stored into about 3.3 Joules. Whatever. I have 18 of those.

The Coils


I wrapped the coils around some random pieces of tubing I had lying around. I used 1mm thick enamel-coated copper wire.(Also known as magnet wire or speaker wire) I wrapped each coil about 200 times. By hand. 3 of them. What am I doing with my life.

200 Times each. What am I doing with my life.
Light gate sensors go in the holes.The white material is what I call "Macgyverglass' ,which is a cheap, poor man's alternative for fiberglass made out of toilet paper and superglue. It's there to reinforce the tubing.

Saturday 28 October 2017

Fallout 4 inspired, Working Gauss Rifle (coilgun) -- Part 1

Yes, I know that the game is old, but I like it. I also don't give a shit. So, I'm going to build a coilgun that does it's best to look like the thing from the game.

The Gauss Rifle from Fallout 4 (The Art of Fallout4)

General Ideas and Stuff

Looking at the gun, it has 6 capacitors on each side(With the full capacitors mod), and has 5~6 coils. I'm guessing that it's a 6-stage coilgun, with 2 capacitors per coil. I don't have the skills, time, money, or patience to make a 6-stage coilgun. so I'm just going to make it a 3-stage coilgun.


Some basic plans I drew in MS Paint
because my laptop(With Photoshop) broke and i was too lazy to install photoshop on my desktop


The capacitors go on the side, just like in the game.
I'll probably control the firing with MOSFETs, and control those MOSFETs with an Arduino. those will be shoved in the foregrip of the gun, along with extra capacitors.
The capacitor charging circuits will be in the "box-thing with the nixie tube displays". I'll probably have a 7-segment display to show stuff instead of the nixie tubes in-game.
The batteries will be held in the cylindrical-tube thing along with the charger.
About the magazine... I have no idea. The gun will probably end up as a muzzle-loader so...

Designing the Capacitor and Coil Holders


I drew the thing up in Fusion 360 to 3D print. Since I have a small buildplate, I'll have to cut them up. I'll print 12 capacitor holders and 12 base plates. The capacitor holders have holes for the leads, and the baseplate has grooves for the wires. In the in-game model, each capacitor has 2 holder-ring-thingies. Fuck that. I'm Just gonna have one holder-ring thingy. Because I hate support material. I HATE grinding and sanding the burrs and leftover support materials. 

Capacitor holder. capacitor goes in the round thingy. Leads go through the holes.

Baseplate. Glue this under the capacitor holder. Wires go in the trenches

Preview of the Thingies assembled. The coil assembly goes in the big groove in the middle.


4:3 Screen. Deal with it.
Now just gotta 3D print that shit. And wrap coils while waiting.